The French Riviera was at the top of my must-visit list long before I ever moved to France. So, when I finally got here, I figured it was only a matter of time before it became my favorite place to vacation in the country.
Now that I’ve lived in the country for a little more than five years, I’ve been down to France’s Mediterranean coastline more times than I can count. There’s no denying just how fabulous it is, but another lesser-known locale situated a little more inland is the place that truly stole my heart.
My French husband was the one who introduced me to Ardèche, an area in southeast France. Although it doesn’t sit on the Mediterranean, it features a very similar climate and, in my opinion, is just as much (if not more) worthy of a visit.
During our first summer living in France, we spent a dreamy couple of weeks there kayaking, lounging, hiking, and foraging near Vallon-Pont-D’Arc, the point where Ardèche’s namesake river meets a naturally formed rock arch.
Our magical experience left me wondering why more people weren’t talking about this spot.
Adventurous activities await in Ardèche
Mediterranean cities like Cannes, Nice, and Saint-Tropez are great for sunbathing and simple sightseeing, but when I’m craving a bit more adventure, I head to Ardèche.
In addition to the Gorges de l’Ardèche — a canyon that’s a hot spot for rock climbers and cave divers — the Ardèche river runs wild with rapids even beginner kayakers can conquer. (I can personally attest to this, as someone who was once a first-time kayaker on this very river!)
There are also fantastic hikes close by, including guided tours to forage for Ardèche specialties like wild blueberries and chestnuts.
I’ve had an easy time finding affordable yet luxurious lodging
It’s no secret that the French Riviera, in addition to being one of the most popular vacation spots, also happens to be among the most expensive places to visit — especially when it comes to room and board.
That’s not the case in Ardèche. This area is abundant in affordable lodging, including gîtes — or French holiday homes in beautiful, historic buildings — as well as campsites where you can choose between pitching your own tent, parking a camper, or staying in a mobile home on-site.
My husband and I selected the last option on our first trip there together, and although it wasn’t a five-star hotel, our proximity to a private river and our spacious, comfortable mobile home left me feeling as relaxed and refreshed as if it had been.
Ardèche is great for history buffs and wine connoisseurs alike
Beyond water and action sports, Ardèche has a rich historical and cultural tapestry.
Some of the world’s oldest-known cave drawings are in the Chauvet Cave — you can’t visit the original, but its replica is nearly identical down to the cave’s stalagmites, and has been open for public tours since 2015.
Beyond that, Ardèche has extensive vineyards, home to historic grapevines — with some over 2,000 years old. You’ll find absolutely delicious wines, including some of the most highly sought-after bottles of rich and earthy Côte-du-Rhône.
I always leave feeling like I’ve gotten a true sense of how the locals live
Part of why I enjoy summering in Ardèche more than in the French Riviera is due to its different approach to tourism culture.
I’ve found that some Mediterranean cities get packed with visitors from all over the world, which can create an atmosphere that feels less representative of how locals actually live.
I love that Ardèche doesn’t feel geared toward international tourists. When I’m there, it feels possible to practice my French with a willing farmers market seller, whereas I may be more hard-pressed to get anything other than a response in English in a place like Nice or Cannes.
Best of all, though, Ardèche is special because — even during the peak summer months — I’ve found it’s still relatively easy to check out small villages where the crowds peter out and the sights, smells, and sounds of real French life take over.
Sure, there are still some bigger, more lively hot spots (like Vallon-Pont-D’Arc and Labeaume), but quietly stunning and mostly empty villages like Vogüé and Saint-Thomé are never more than a rental car ride away.
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