Even as an avid air traveler, I didn’t know what to expect when I embarked on this 52-hour cross-country train ride from Chicago to Emeryville, California.
I’d booked a roomette for the trip aboard Amtrak’s California Zephyr, which is said to take one of the most scenic routes in the US.
My trip was filled with surprises — some more pleasant than others.
My roomette felt smaller than I anticipated
In my opinion, booking a roomette was the best investment on this trip since it made the ride more comfortable.
However, I was surprised by how small I felt once I was inside, which included two seats that transformed into beds.
Considering a roomette is designed for up to two adults with two seats that transform into beds, I thought it would feel a little bigger. I’m only 5’1″ and didn’t feel like I had much space to spare once my bags were tucked inside.
Still, I was glad to have a place to lie flat and sleep and a flat surface to place my computer on.
At first, falling asleep was a bit challenging
As someone who can fall asleep anywhere, the first night on the train was surprisingly rough.
I curled up on the bottom bunk in my roomette, and the ride felt especially bumpy. I woke up a few times but eventually fell back asleep.
Thankfully, I think my body got used to the train’s swaying and rocking. The next night was a much smoother sleeping experience.
In the end, I took more naps on the train than I have in a while and felt well-rested the entire time. Sleeping more helped the time pass, too.
I didn’t miss having WiFi
The ride does not include complimentary WiFi, which isn’t a huge surprise given the mountainous, remote route. However, I’m relieved this didn’t bother me as much as I expected.
Although I packed my portable hot spot, I didn’t even think about using it and was happier enjoying the ride sans internet.
In fact, I took this ride as a welcome challenge for a social-media detox.
Motion sickness doesn’t usually get to me, but I felt nauseous during part of the trip
I don’t normally get motion sickness, but I felt a bit nauseated when I woke up on the second day of travel as we headed toward the Rocky Mountains.
Thankfully, I’d thought to pack some Dramamine and nausea-relief bands, which hit a pressure point on my wrist that helped to remedy the unpleasant feeling.
The food was better than I expected, and dining with strangers wasn’t as awkward as I’d feared
My roomette booking included breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the dining car each day of my trip.
Before the ride, I didn’t have high hopes for the food, considering we were on a train. Fortunately, I found a variety of tasty options, even as a pescatarian. Some highlights included French toast with berries, crab cakes, and vegan chili.
The three-course dinners with a complimentary alcoholic beverage— I usually chose white wine — were my favorite.
Dining with a bunch of people I didn’t know was also less awkward than I feared, too. Talking to strangers in the observation car was one thing, but the thought of eating in front of them was more daunting.
While having meals in the dining car, I pushed myself to be social and engage with other passengers. It got easier by the second or third meal, and giving myself talking points helped.
I had to make dinner reservations
Eating dinner on board was a very organized experience.
Unlike for breakfast and lunch, the dining-car attendant came around and told sleeper-car travelers which meal times were available.
Depending on which sleeper car the attendant visited first, I’d end up with an earlier or later dinner time — around 5:30 p.m. or 7:30 p.m., respectively.
Sleeper-car and coach travelers were separated
Before boarding, I didn’t realize there was such a divide between sleeper-car and coach passengers.
For example, coach travelers weren’t allowed in the dining car. Instead, they were limited to purchasing food in the café car or eating things they’d packed.
The only time I really interacted with coach passengers was in the observation car. Even then, it seemed as if we had our own unspoken sides of the car; I didn’t even think to walk toward the side closest to coach.
The ride was truly as scenic as promised
The videos and photos I saw of the train ride gave me a sneak peek of my adventures, but it was different to appreciate it in person.
I loved riding through the mountains and hopping between both sides of the observation car to catch different views.
With the floor-to-ceiling windows, I got such a panoramic view of the mountains, greenery, and rocks surrounding us. It made me feel like I was in a 3D movie.
I didn’t feel the fear of missing out while enjoying the views
I love to hike and thought I would feel like I was missing out on experiences since the train doesn’t stop as it passes through the scenery and mountains, but I was wrong.
Even though some areas we viewed are accessible via hiking trails, a lot are not, so riding through the mountains gave me a different perspective.
In the end, sitting in the observation car was wonderful, not a source of FOMO.
Although I traveled solo, I didn’t feel alone
I was nervous that I hadn’t brought enough activities to pass the time with and that I’d feel isolated on such a long train journey, but I was wrong.
Solo travel can get lonely at times, but spending time in the dining and observation cars helped me engage with others.
Naturally, I found more solitude — which I love — as needed when I returned to my roomette.
In the end, 52 hours didn’t feel that long after all
The only time I truly felt restless was when a delay added some extra time to our trip on the third day. Otherwise, by the end of the train ride, I couldn’t believe how quickly the 52 hours seemed to go by.
For me, finding (and bringing) plenty of things to do was key to passing the time. Between sleeping, writing, looking out the window, talking to other passengers, and reading, this journey was a breeze.
This story was originally published on October 3, 2021, and most recently updated on July 6, 2026.
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