This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Helene Sula, 38, an author who runs travel-advice blog Helene in Between. She and her husband, who moved from Dallas to Europe in 2016, currently livein Montenegro. This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
For the past 10 years, my husband and I have been traveling around the world. We live a nearly nomadic lifestyle, spending about 80% of our time on the road.
We’ve visited dozens of countries across Europe, Asia, the Middle East, and Africa, and explored hundreds of cities — if not more — including Bangkok, London, New York City, Aix-en-Provence in France, Munich, Marrakesh in Morocco, and Riyadh in Saudi Arabia.
Of all the places we’ve been, Heidelberg, Germany, stands out as my favorite.
When I was 25, my husband and I decided to move abroad. We spent three years saving and planning, and in 2016, we finally made the move to Germany.
We had never set foot in Germany before, and we chose Heidelberg as our new home without knowing how long we’d stay. But the moment we began walking through its streets, we fell in love.
Heidelberg is absolutely beautiful. It’s a 17th-century town with cobblestone streets, a river running through it, and a castle perched above. It felt like stepping into a fairy tale.
Heidelberg has a charming, classic vibe
We spent an entire year researching where to live in Europe, and Heidelberg felt like the best fit for us. It truly was — we ended up living there for three years.
I think the city is incredibly underrated, especially for American travelers. Bigger cities in Germany tend to be more popular because they offer a lot of attractions. They’re also beautiful and easily accessible.
Take Munich, for example. You can fly there from almost anywhere. It’s close to the Alps, hosts Oktoberfest, and has stunning architecture. The churches are absolutely amazing.
While I highly recommend visiting Munich, I think Heidelberg offers more of that true, classic, charming German feel. It’s a place rich with culture that you can fully experience in just a few days without feeling too overwhelmed.
Heidelberg, with about 180,000 residents, is not technically a small town, but I’d still call it more of a medium-sized city. It’s easy to get around, and you quickly start to feel like you know the place.
The city sits among hills with countless trails for walking and hiking. Our favorite trail is the hike up to Philosopher’s Walk in Neuenheim, the oldest part of the city. It’s a steep incline through really nice homes, and you get a good view of the Neckar River and Heidelberg Castle.
The weather in Heidelberg — and Germany in general — has been getting warmer over the years. It can actually get pretty hot in the summer.
While temperatures usually hover in the high 70s, it’s not unheard of for them to reach the 90s, though that’s still relatively rare. Many of the buildings and businesses still lack air conditioning, and sometimes, you can’t find ice, which can be a bit of an inconvenience.
I find the winters to be very manageable. Temperatures can drop into the 20s and 30s Fahrenheit, but generally hover around the 40s. Snow is rare, occurring maybe once a year.
It’s a down-to-earth university town with friendly locals
One of the main reasons we chose Heidelberg is that it’s a university town.
Heidelberg University is one of the oldest universities in Germany. It brings a vibrant, youthful energy to the city, with a great mix of students, artists, and people interested in music and culture.
The city has a rich literary tradition, thanks in part to its status as a major university city.
Fun fact: Mark Twain actually spent quite a bit of time in Heidelberg. While people often associate him with floating down the Mississippi River, he also floated down the Neckar River here in Heidelberg. He loved the city, and his time there even inspired some of his writing.
Heidelberg is quite an affluent area, so you get the best of both worlds: a well-maintained city center and a variety of events. I think it’s a really eclectic mix — there’s some nightlife, not wild, but enough to keep things interesting.
As for the people, I think Germans can sometimes come off as cold — it’s a cultural thing. But one-on-one, they are genuinely incredible and kind.
Once you form a friendship, it’s very real and straightforward. For example, if a German says, “Let’s get coffee,” they mean it, which is very cool. In contrast, Americans might say that casually without intending to follow through.
It’s an affordable town to visit and live in
Another reason I love Germany is that it’s one of the cheaper European countries. Germany is rarely talked about in terms of budget, but I find the food and lodging in Heidelberg to be quite reasonable.
When we moved to Heidelberg in 2016, we rented a one-bedroom apartment with a large living area downstairs and a furnished kitchen for three years for $1,300. The landlord never increased the price.
Food is affordable in Germany, too. I mean, you can get a delicious butter pretzel for $1.69, or you can have a cup of coffee and cake — “kaffee und kuchen,” as they call it — for under $3.39. You can even get a full meal for under $23, and that’s going to include your glass of wine.
Germany is still very much cash-based, but it’s changing.
Germany has an amazing public transportation system, which is an inexpensive and great way to get around. However, we moved our dogs abroad, too, so if I want to take them into the countryside for a walk, that can be really difficult. To get them out to the country — a journey that should take 15 minutes by car— can take 45 minutes to an hour by public transportation.
I moved to Germany thinking we wouldn’t buy a car. Once we arrived and lived there for six months, we learned the necessity, especially for taking the dogs around and getting to smaller, more rural places.
Gas in Germany, and Europe in general, is pretty expensive compared to the US. Right now, it’s $1.04 per liter in the US, versus $2.21 in Germany — so it’s double the price.
There’s always something to do in Heidelberg
Heidelberg has incredible castles, something you just don’t find in the US.
The most famous is Heidelberg Castle, which has a lot of myths and legends. One involves the town mascot, a court jester named Perkeo from the 1800s. According to local legend, he is said to have only ever drunk wine, and the moment he took a sip of water, he died.
You can spot Perkeo all over the city. He’s featured on the Christmas market displays and appears in various decorations at the castle and local restaurants.
Heidelberg has amazing food. You’ve got your typical sauerkraut and sausages. But there’s also Käsespätzle, which is basically an elevated mac and cheese. Also, since Heidelberg is so close to the border with France, one of my favorite things to eat is Flammkuchen, which is kind of like a pizza, but has a very thin crust with sour cream and bacon.
It always made me laugh how often the city shuts down for festivals or markets.
Heidelberg has many festivals, not just Oktoberfest: There’s a spring wine festival featuring “new wine”; a castle festival with fireworks that light up the city in summer; and the autumn festival, Herbstfest, in the old town — one of my favorites.
Another of my absolute favorite experiences is the Christmas market. Before moving to Germany, I had no idea how magical these markets could be. The stalls are hand-carved wooden huts, filled with music and glühwein, which is hot, spiced mulled wine.
I love Heidelberg so much that I return every year, even though we now live in Montenegro. My husband and I organize river cruise ships, and we bring our Instagram followers to the city. I think everyone should experience the magic of Heidelberg, especially at Christmastime.
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