Eleven Madison Park announced in August that, starting October 14, it would resume serving meat on its menu after going fully plant-based in 2021.
Two of the three meat courses I was served were plated with surprising restraint — almost as if they were designed to be palatable to the vegan diners sitting nearby.
The lobster, for instance, arrived tucked beneath a thin, golden disc of squash, and the scallop was also artfully plated so that the seafood was not on full display.
Still, not every dish was plated with the same consideration for meat-averse diners. When the signature lavender-honey duck appeared at our table, my vegan dining companion felt a wave of sadness and frustration.
To her, seeing the duck underscored how Eleven Madison Park’s shift back toward including meat on its menu can risk alienating the very diners who once defined its identity as a plant-based restaurant.
The restaurant has said its shift back to offering meat is part of a strategic move to be more inclusive of various dietary preferences.
“I know that the best way to continue to champion plant-based cooking is to let everyone participate around the table,” chef Daniel Humm told The New York Times after announcing the change in August.
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