Although it’s unlikely you’ll score an authentic Cartier watch from the guy selling them on the sidewalk, there are key signs to tell if you’re looking at a unicorn or a dud.
The pre-owned watch market is booming. Bank of America’s 2024 survey of 1,007 high-net-worth Americans found that 65% of the respondents said they’re interested in collectibles. Millennials and Gen Z were particularly more likely to collect watches as investment pieces than older generations.
Those new to the scene will need to know how to spot fakes as they’re building their collection. Some brands, including Rolex, offer their own certified pre-owned programs that provide a trusted way to purchase an authenticated watch.
However, there are a number of smaller shops or online businesses that deal in used luxury watches. Although you could find a hidden gem, a trained eye is required to shop successfully.
“When navigating the pre-owned luxury watch market, it’s crucial to remember that you are buying the seller and their reputation as much as the watch itself,” Swiss Watch Expo CEO Eugene Tutunikov told Business Insider.
A trustworthy dealer will always stand behind their pieces and have a rigorous process to ensure authenticity.
Private investigator Rob Holmes previously told BI that an estimated 23.3 million counterfeit watches were circulating in the United States as of 2024.
Here are some ways to tell fake luxury watches apart from the real deal, according to those who sell watches for a living.
Omega
For Omega watches, poor-quality engraving, on the watch’s case especially, is a dead giveaway that a watch is counterfeit. A Seamaster model, for example, can be verified by the wave pattern on the dial and the placement of other fine details, Paul Altieri, CEO of watch marketplace Bob’s Watches, told BI.
Aside from aesthetics, the serial number might also be a red flag.
“Many fakes reuse numbers pulled from real watches, so if something feels off, verifying it with Omega or an authorized dealer can help,” he said.
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet watches go for five figures or more, depending on the model. The 41-millimeter Royal Oak Selfwinding retails for $28,600.
“Fakes of the Royal Oak often fall short on the dial’s ‘Tapisserie’ pattern — either it’s too shallow, uneven, or just plain wrong,” Altieri said.
Bezel screws, a detail that Audemars Piguet watches are known for, will be “perfectly aligned” on the real thing with expert polish and finishing. The watch should feel crisp and clean and not take shortcuts on the small details, Altieri said.
Patek Philippe
The movement of a Patek Philippe is a “huge tell,” as they’re known for “flawless hand-finishing,” Altieri said. The Patek Philippe Calatrava has a $33,113 retail price.
“Counterfeits usually have crude, undecorated movements, or generic ones that don’t match the brand’s caliber,” Tutunikov told BI.
Incorrect fonts or spacing on the dial, especially around the date window are giveaways for fake Pateks, Altieri said.
Panerai
Panerai watches have distinct design elements, including the signature crown guard with a locking mechanism on the side. Loose or awkward-feeling crown guards are a problem.
“The cases are often too bulky or the signature crown guard doesn’t have the right shape or feel,” Altieri said.
Lume, a material applied to watch dials to make them glow in the dark, is a feature that could give away a fake. On the real thing, the lume glows a specific color that fakes don’t get right.
Cartier
Cartier is known in the watch community for its precision. Any sign of rough craftsmanship is a red flag that shouldn’t be ignored, Altieri said. Specifically, he said, “Roman numerals that aren’t aligned perfectly ” and sloppy screws on the case are typical problems.
“Fakes often have shallow, blurry, or inconsistently spaced lettering and incorrect font styles,” Tutunikov told BI.
Another clue that’s subtle at first but easily spotted when you know what to look for is the “secret signature” hidden on Cartier watches. It’s etched at an angle in one of the Roman numerals on the dial. If that’s missing, it’s best to look elsewhere — unless it’s a much older model that pre-dates the design, Altieri said.
“A true luxury watch whispers quality in every little detail. If it has to shout, it’s probably a fake,” he continued.
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