If you’ve ever admired someone’s engagement ring, you’ve probably oohed and aahed over the size or shine of “the rock,” as many like to call it.
The diamond or other gem in an engagement ring is a key element, but it’s important to remember the entire ring needs to be durable since it’s typically worn every day.
Unfortunately, some of the most popular engagement ring styles throw practicality out the window in favor of aesthetics.
Business Insider spoke with private jeweler Anna P. Jay, who is based in Nantucket, Massachusetts, and Charleston, South Carolina, about engagement ring styles that may not stand the test of time.
Thin bands aren’t that durable
Celebrities like Taylor Swift and Zendaya have been favoring chunkier engagement rings in recent years, but rings with very thin bands are still popular in the market. Jay said the latter can be a mistake.
“I don’t like super-thin bands personally because sometimes they’re not sturdy,” Jay said.
Though thin bands create a sleek look and can make a stone appear larger, they aren’t as supportive, particularly if your ring has a large carat stone.
“When you have a larger stone on the top, it becomes top-heavy, so it’ll constantly be spinning,” Jay said. Thin rings can also bend with use and might need more prongs to keep a stone in place since there is less base support.
Jay said it’s better to get a slightly thicker band so the ring will stand the test of time. Plus, an increased width isn’t usually noticeable to the naked eye.
“A matter of tens of millimeters makes a huge difference,” Jay said.
More isn’t always more
Jay said the U-prong eternity band (colloquially called an infinity ring), which has become popular in recent years, isn’t that practical either.
The entire band of an eternity ring is covered in diamonds or another jewel. There are multiple styles of eternity rings, but the U-prong setting is especially popular because it has very little visible metal and focuses the attention on the gems. It’s also the least practical, according to Jay.
“U-prong settings are incredibly impractical,” Jay said. “People like them because of the lack of metal, but I’ll make it, and I’ve had to reset or tighten prongs after a week of wear.”
“I think jewelry should be worn, and if you can’t wear it because it’s too fragile, what’s the point?” she said.
In addition, eternity rings cannot be resized because the entire band is set with diamonds or another stone.
That’s a problem, as most people’s fingers change size throughout their lives, Jay said. Because it can’t be easily resized, an eternity band may have to be reset entirely at some point.
Jay recommends halfway or even three-quarter bands as an alternative, since a partially metal band makes it easy to resize.
With all aspects of engagement rings, Jay advises people to have open conversations with their partner about what they expect from a ring.
“Make sure you do talk to your partner about what you want because it’s not a cup of coffee,” she said. “We can’t just throw it away and start again.”
“This is often the most expensive piece of jewelry a lot of people will purchase, and it’s the first piece of jewelry a lot of people will purchase,” Jay added. “Let’s make sure we nail it.”
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