Some days, life goes your way. Other days, AI steals another client from your content marketing roster while your French bulldog is undergoing a $2,500 corneal ulcer treatment, and rent is due on the first.
So when times are tough, I’ve found that saying “no” rolls off the tongue quite smoothly — to fancy dinners, concert tickets, and most disappointingly, international travel.
That was, until an offer to visit Japan for the first time fell in my lap. So, against my better judgment, I said “yes” and joined a group of American women invited to learn about two lesser-known regions in Japan: Toyama and Ishikawa prefectures.
Embracing the local culture
After spending eight days traveling and eating my way through Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto, I hopped on a high-speed train to Toyama Prefecture, about 120 miles northeast of Kyoto.
Off the bat, Toyama reminded me of the lush and scenic Pacific Northwest. And much like the PNW, there’s a strong local culture surrounding food, imbibing, and the arts — in fact, at a glass museum, I unexpectedly discovered an exhibit by renowned Washington-based glass artist Dale Chihuly.
During my three days in Toyama, food was a major part of the experience. My first omakase lunch included endless rounds of sushi courses with fresh seafood from Toyama Bay — I squeamishly devoured a head-to-tail deep-fried ayu sweetfish.
The next day brought a field trip to a whiskey distillery in Tonami, about 40 minutes west by car, which included a tour (I was surprised to hear they use barrels imported from Kentucky) and a Japanese whiskey-blending experience. While I’m by no means a whisky connoisseur, I enjoyed learning about the science.
I’ve spent many years indulging in Michelin-rated fine dining in Miami, but my final lunch at L’évo in Nanto, a scenic hourlong drive southwest and a restaurant awarded two Michelin stars in 2021, was just as memorable. I hesitantly tried local black bear and soft-shell turtle — albeit delicious, the latter left me feeling a bit guilty.
Discovering the slow side
Next, we ventured to Kanazawa, 40 miles southwest of Toyama by high-speed train. Over five days in Ishikawa Prefecture, I slowed down and spent time with local artisans who were dedicated to preserving their crafts.
In Kanazawa, I visited the house of a master instructor from the samurai line. I stood in awe, nervously holding a 200-year-old sword from the Edo period.
My inner Black Mamba (circa “Kill Bill”) kicked in when I was asked to get into uniform and wield one. I also went to a three-generation kimono workshop to see the makers behind the scenes, and I carefully but graciously tried on a vintage $30,000 kimono — it was one of the highlights of my trip.
From Kanazawa, I ventured to Kaga for my first traditional ryokan stay, where sleeping on tatami mats instead of a mattress wasn’t as uncomfortable as I expected.
I also visited the homes of several local artisans. First, I met an artist and washi paper maker whose husband taught ikebana, the Japanese art of flower arranging. Working with florals from the surrounding grounds was way more invigorating than visiting Trader Joe’s, my typical supplier. The duo reminded me of couples I might have crossed paths with during the years I lived in Colorado.
After Kaga, I ventured to nearby Nomi City, home to a porcelain master, whose daughter, Reiko, guided me through the more patient art of fine-line red painting. Even though I love arts and crafts, I much prefer coloring outside the lines.
At the end of the trip, I returned to Kanazawa to begin the journey back home. Although I was tempted, I couldn’t afford to treat myself to the $30,000 vintage kimono, so I splurged on a plush $130 hotel robe and a $17 rooftop cocktail instead.
After all, a compromise can still be a version of “yes” in disguise.
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